How We Make Beeswax Polish: Mineral, Tung, or Linseed

Father and son at the workbench with a fresh batch of beeswax polish tins

My son and I spent a day in the shop making a fresh batch of wax polish, pouring it into tins, and then putting it to use. All three polishes start with beeswax. The oil is what changes, and that choice helps decide which tin I reach for.

If you would rather have a tin than make a batch, you can find the mineral oil, linseed, and tung polishes in the shop.

Watch the video — available Sunday, October 11, 2026

Same wax, three oils

Beeswax gives the polish its body and its buffed feel. The oil softens the mixture and affects its scent, color, and whether the oil cures.

We melt the wax slowly. The color varies from batch to batch: some is gold, and some is almost white. This batch had a chunk of white wax that looked like a little iceberg in the pot. Once the wax is liquid, we mix in the oil, fill the tins, and let them cool. The polish turns cloudy as it sets.

Stirring the beeswax and oil mixture while making wax polish

We made this batch in warm weather, so it has a little more wax than a cold-weather mix. The extra wax helps the polish stay firm in the tin on a warm bench.

Pouring warm beeswax and oil polish into metal tins

Adding labels to the cooled tins of handmade beeswax polish

Mineral oil: cutting boards, tools, and sliding parts

This is the one I reach for most, and it is the one I suggest if you only choose one.

We use food-grade cutting board oil with beeswax. The mineral oil does not cure, which makes this the blend I reach for on cutting boards, bread boards, wooden spoons, and wooden countertops. Apply a thin coat, give it a few minutes, and buff away the excess.

I also use it on a table saw top, a hand saw, or the sole of a plane. A thin, buffed film helps wood slide and helps protect the metal from rust. On a large table saw top, spread it evenly across the surface and buff thoroughly rather than leaving a heavy coat.

Applying mineral oil and beeswax polish to a table saw top

In the video, we wax the dovetail tracks on a little trammel of Archimedes I made for my son a couple of Christmases ago. Those tracks need to keep sliding. I choose the mineral-oil blend here because the oil stays liquid; linseed and tung oils cure over time.

Waxing the sliding tracks of a wooden trammel of Archimedes

Cutting Board Mineral Oil & Beeswax Polish

Linseed oil: projects, tools, and bare wood

Raw linseed oil and beeswax: this is my shop polish. I like the smell, and on bare wood it deepens the color and brings out the grain.

I use it on wooden handles and shop projects, and I have also used it over paint, polyurethane, shellac, and lacquer. Let an existing finish cure first, and test a small, hidden area before coating the whole piece. I have used it outdoors on a work table, too, though wax needs maintenance and is not a substitute for a durable exterior finish.

For cutting boards and sliding tracks, I reach for the mineral-oil blend. The linseed blend is the one I choose when I want its color and feel on a woodworking project.

Linseed Oil & Beeswax Polish

A tin of handmade linseed oil and beeswax polish

Tung oil: pure tung oil and beeswax

This blend combines pure tung oil with natural beeswax. The oil ingredient is 100% tung oil; the finished polish is a mixture of oil and wax.

I use it much like the linseed polish: on bare wood, or over a fully cured finish after testing a small area. Apply a thin coat with a lint-free cloth, wait a few minutes, and buff away the excess. A paper towel works in a pinch, though it can leave bits behind.

Both tung and linseed are drying oils. Choose tung if that is the oil you prefer for your project; choose linseed if you like the warmth it adds to bare wood and its familiar scent.

Tung Oil & Beeswax Polish

Tung oil and beeswax polish beside a wooden spoon

Three beeswax polishes made with mineral oil, tung oil, and linseed oil

How to put it on

Start with a clean, dry surface. Use an old shirt, rag, or lint-free cloth to spread a thin coat. Wait a few minutes, then buff with a clean cloth until no excess polish remains. Each tin holds 4 fluid ounces.

On a big surface, work the polish out evenly. On a track or a plane sole, a little goes a long way. Reapply as the surface wears or needs attention. Buffing and curing are different: the linseed and tung oils continue to cure after you buff.

Follow the oil manufacturer’s directions for handling and disposing of used cloths. Do not leave rags containing linseed or tung oil piled up; drying oils can generate heat as they cure.

Wooden mallet, trammel, and beeswax polish tins on the workbench

A tin from this batch

All three polishes are handmade in small batches. Start with mineral oil if you want one tin for cutting boards, tools, and sliding parts. Choose linseed or tung for the feel and finish you prefer on your woodworking projects.

Tell me what you put it on. I read those comments.

Handmade beeswax polish tins and wooden projects arranged on the workbench

See all three in the shoppe

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